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| The illuminating gaze of the old gods skim across the monuments to their successors (Moni Rousanou, Meteora) |
The last time I was a gawking tourist with me pawpaw was over 15 years ago. We hauled ass from museum to cathedral to restaurant in Paris on a whirlwind pace. Surely we're both in the same shape now to go harder? Hey dad, how do you feel about hiking volcanoes?
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I've been to Athens before, with an extraordinary kindred spirit, and did much tourism already. The real reason to return is for my favourite restaurant and bars that I'd missed last time. This is going to be mostly food porn and rumination okay buckle up.
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| A negroni as blue as the Aegean Sea and an apt menu title for the seemingly daily gauntlet I run (The Clumsies, Athens) |
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| I truly don't know how my introvert-ass manages to make friends. Thanks for a fun night Stacy, Michelle, Angela (The Clumsies, Athens) |
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| A portal peering into the throngs of modern invaders still sieging the Parthenon (Acropolis, Athens) |
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| Cod, collagen, and fermented ramson garlic an ice cream sandwich make not (Hytra, Athens) |
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| Short-ribs under a demulsified concoction at once both Greek and very not-Greek (Hytra, Athens) |
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| Today I learned that cactus flower is edible. Wait what do you mean this was just for decoration (Hytra, Athens) |
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| Lemon-leaf soda and parsley salt face off in this weird margarita-spritz-identity crisis (Hytra, Athens) |
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February 28th, a brutal train crash on a neglected rail network. The collateral of this tragedy being striking workers and cancelled train tickets. A frustrating change of plans but it'd be quite imprudent as a train tunnel engineer and not to mention gauche for me to insist on fulfilling my ride anyway. We rent a car towards the hallowed spires of Meteora.
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| Not to be hyperbolic or anything but these are the best sunsets I have ever seen in my life (Meteora, Thessaly) |
The reality of time passing crushes me. I witness the once-strong and capable father who taught me how to ride a bicycle in my halcyon youth struggle to pedal uphill. One day frailty will also catch up to me. By some dissociative coping mechanism I barely keep from breaking down. My resolve to climb while I can is motivated more than ever.
| March 12, 2023 Ticklist |
| χωρίς επιφυλαξη |
Onsight |
Meteora > Doupianifels |
5.10a Sport
4 pitches |
| δρεπάνι |
Lead / Onsight |
Meteora > Doupianifels |
5.10c Sport
1st pitch |
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| Xhristos casting our rope for rappel. Our audience of towers in the distance is unimpressed (Doupianifels, Meteora) |
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| My first time climbing conglomerate. Every pebble I terrifyingly broke off was an extra potato fry I shouldn't have eaten (Doupianifels, Meteora) |
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| Hello reader, do you like Greek taverns? How about this one, Boufidis? This Greek tavern Boufi-DEEZNUTS okayokay it's out of my system I promise (Boufidis Tavern, Kastraki) |
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Out the holy mountains a detour to windy and chilly pre-season Santorini. Alright let's just get those instagram photos out of the way shall we.
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| Nahh we just doing one pic. Googling will do you better than I. (Oia, Santorini) |
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| I'll get my flatlay game on the level eventually (Aris Restaurant, Thera) |
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Foul weather prematurely ushers us to the island exodus. Boat strikes, airline strikes, and civil unrest inhibit every step of the way back to Athens. Trying to salvage the rest of our holiday we rent another car, and in effort to avoid the riotous protests I accidentally drive onto the pedestrian-only steps of the Acropolis. We greet a phalanx of agitated tourists, hawkers, and police. I am beyond stressed as I squirm my way out of the eye-melting Athens traffic. Please, pleease, just let me get to the mountains and my happy place.
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| Yup, we're back in Athens alright (Propylaia, Acropolis) |
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| Every time I leave and come back to limestone I categorically forget how to climb it. Eleni packs up my gear in disdain (Mikri Varasova, Mount Parnitha) |
| March 16, 2023 Ticklist |
| κόκκινη |
Lead / Fell/Hung |
Athens > Mt. Parnitha > Mikri Varasova |
5.10d Sport |
| Parthena ke Diavolos |
Lead / Fell/Hung |
Athens > Mt. Parnitha > Mikri Varasova |
5.11a Sport |
| Halara |
Lead / Onsight |
Athens > Mt. Parnitha > Mikri Varasova |
5.11a Sport |
| Stavrakas |
Lead / Fell/Hung |
Athens > Mt. Parnitha > Mikri Varasova |
5.10d Sport |
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I'm exhausted from all the itinerary planning and dodging transit breakdowns. We head out of Athens on two stalwart legs named 'sunny weather' and 'thinning crowds.' The pair tremble under the strain as they valiantly prop up my disposition.
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| Crashing a tidal pool party of sea urchins I do my best to blend in. Very nice (Acronauflia, Napflio) |
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| My septuagenarian pop-pop treading unsteady ground. I wonder how I'd manage if I reach that age (Acronauflia, Napflio) |
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| I'm not sure I'm allowed to precariously stand here but the Ottomans didn't listen either so why should I (Palamidi Castle, Napflio) |
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| The sea beckons me to come home but I can't come home just yet. One day, I'll return to your sweet oblivion (Kyparissia, Peloponnesus) |
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A layover, my first time in London. The time spent is short but we know what must be done.
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| Not sure why we're aerating the martini after labouring over the stir but you don't really argue with the world's 8th best bar (Connaught Bar, Mayfair) |
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| I will never financially recover from this 200 quid drink. Yes you read right. 200 pounds sterling. Never let me order a sixth round ever again (Connaught Bar, Mayfair) |
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| In this photo you will see some proof that I've been to London. |
I board my budget plane home. Inclement weather and tarmac miscoordinations massage the flight duration like a gravity well of time dilation. Hunger, thirst, stress, fatigue, finally give way as I walk through the threshold of home and into the comfort of bed. What a wild ride. I never want to do this again. So, when do we do this again?
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Oh yeah, I did say food porn didn't I?
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| Pellas pepper, pickled strawberry, and a garden on top makes a tongue-amuser and tongue-twister (Hytra, Athens) |
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| Surprised you could slice octopus this thin but I guess that's what makes this a Michelin-star joint (Varoulko Seaside, Piraeus) |
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| When in Greece I guessssss I'll get the grilled fish (Varoulko Seaside, Piraeus) |
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| The lightest coloured rosé I've ever seen but apparently that's the point. I'm not a wino but holy moley this was... s e n s a t i o n a l (Varoulko, Piraeus) |
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| The start of the Greek food trinity: the baklava... (Taximi Tavern, Kalabaka) |
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| ...the moussaka... (Taverna-Ouzeri Pappas, Kastraki) |
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| ...and the holy (deconstructed?) gyro amen (ATAKA, Spata) |
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| Rosemary and lamb while in the mountains, gotta stay on-brand yanno (Palia Agora, Kyparissia) |
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| Thanks for reading this far but can't let y'all go without a CAT TAX GOTTEM (OCTO, Kalabaka) |
